The Squalene Found in Beauty Products Endangers Sharks Says New Scientific Study

In the realm of beauty and self-care, an urgent issue has emerged, linking our cherished skincare routines to the fate of the ocean's enigmatic creatures.

A recent study highlights a distressing reality: the demand for squalene, a prized ingredient in our favourite beauty essentials—from moisturisers and makeup to cleansers and even certain medical treatments—poses a threat to the survival of numerous shark species.

Groundbreaking research, published in Science, serves as a wake-up call for immediate action to safeguard the deep ocean's mysterious and crucial ecosystems.

“Squalene is even used in the pharmaceutical sector, with shark squalene appearing in some vaccines”

“Deepwater sharks and rays are among the most sensitive marine vertebrates to overexploitation,” says the report, “One-third of threatened deepwater sharks are targeted, and half the species targeted for the international liver-oil trade are threatened with extinction.” Shockingly, close to 390 of the roughly 2,800 known deepwater shark and ray species are teetering on the edge of extinction.

“The unfortunate truth is that your favourite and most used products could contain shark, labelled as squalene, a compound made from shark liver oil. Squalene is a common ingredient in lipsticks, foundations, eyeshadow, moisturisers, sunscreens, and lip balms,” explains the Rob Stewart Sharkwater Foundation, “The most sought after are deep sea sharks because their liver can make up 20% of their body weight.”

What is Squalene?

Squalene, is essential for helping sharks maintain buoyancy. Squalene is a natural organic compound originally obtained for commercial purposes primarily from shark liver oil, though there are also plant sources like amaranth seed, rice bran, wheat germ, and olives. In its pure form, it's a clear, odourless liquid that's a natural component of human sebum.

Squalene is celebrated for its exceptional hydrating properties and ability to leave skin feeling velvety without any oily residue. “It mimics your skin’s natural oils, making it an excellent emollient. It’s also a natural antioxidant and has antitumor properties, protecting your skin from carcinogens,” explains Healthline’s Valencia Higuera.

Squalene is even used in the pharmaceutical sector, with shark squalene appearing in some vaccines, “Shark squalene is used as a component in some adjuvants – additives that boosts the body's immune response to an active ingredient – in certain jabs, including a number of those being developed and produced for protection against Covid-19,” says Darcy Jimenez, healthcare reporter for Pharmaceutical Technology and Pharma Technology Focus.

Squalene's darker side involves its impact on marine life, particularly deep-sea sharks from which it is traditionally sourced. Deepwater sharks and rays, known for their slow reproductive cycles, find themselves especially endangered by overfishing. These beings dwell in the ocean's depths, beyond 200 meters, in environments largely untouched by human activity, but are now facing the consequences of unchecked fishing practices. “Increased regulations are urgent, because the potential for most sharks to recover from such declines is limited due to their slow development and reproduction,” says the research.

Squalene in found in shark livers

Thankfully, the beauty industry is beginning to embrace alternatives, moving away from shark-derived squalene towards plant-based options. “When shopping for squalane, look specifically for oils that are 100 percent plant-derived. Some skin care lines use squalane from plants, not sharks. Oil derived from plants is cruelty-free and sustainable,” says Healthline.

This shift, however, hasn't completely mitigated the global threat that the extraction of squalene from shark livers presents.

Professor Nick Dulvy, a leading voice in the study, points out that "Liver oil is kind of going under the radar… If you ask anybody about it, they'll never have heard about it, but the reality is we've probably all used it or ingested it." Despite the relative obscurity of the shark liver oil trade, which reached 750 tonnes in 2018, the continued decline in shark populations cannot be ignored, even as the beauty industry moves towards more sustainable practices.

As we peruse the beauty aisles, our decisions can reflect our commitment to eco-conscious living. In the quest for ‘squalane’, the stabilized form of squalene that offers all its benefits without the ethical concerns, prioritising 100% plant-derived options is key.

SHARK-FREE COSMETICS AND PERSONAL CARE BRANDS:

Based on information from the Rob Stewart Sharkwater Foundation, this is the list of cosmetic brands recognised for being entirely free of shark derivatives, promoting ocean safety and sustainability.

L'Oréal Brands:

• L’Oréal Professionnel

• Kérastase

• Redken

• Matrix

• Pureology

• Shu Uemura Art of Hair

• Carita, Decléor

• L’Oréal Paris

• Garnier

• Maybelline New York

• Ombrelle

• Essie

• NYX

• Dessange Paris

• Lancôme

• Giorgio Armani

• Yves Saint-Laurent

• Kiehl’s

• Biotherm

• Guy Laroche

• Clarisonic

• Paloma Picasso

• Shu Uemura

• Urban Decay

• Ralph Lauren

• Viktor&Rolf

• Diesel

• Cacharel

• Maison Martin Margiela

• IT Cosmetics

• Atelier Cologne

• Vichy

• La Roche-Posay

• Dermablend

• SkinCeuticals

• CeraVe

• Roger&Gallet

• The Body Shop

Unilever Brands:

• Axe

• Degree

• Dove

• Dove Men+Care

• Lever 2000

• Love Beauty Planet

• Nexxus

• Noxzema

• Pond’s

• Schmidt’s

• Shea Moisture

• Simple

• St. Ives

• TRESemmé

• Vaseline

• VO5

• Dermalogica

Other Brands:

• Lush

• ACURE

• Alchimie Forever

• Arbonne

• Beautycounter

• Beauty Without Cruelty

• Biossance

• Bliss

• Body Crystal of California

• My Clarins

• ColorProof Evolved Color Care

• Dear Self Skincare

• Dr. Botanicals

• Earth Mama Angel Baby

• EcoTools

• ELF Cosmetics

• Hugo Naturals

• Indie Lee

• Kylie Cosmetics

• Kylie Skin

• Le Labo

• Malie Organics

• Milk Makeup

• MuLondon Organic

• Nanshy

• Nature’s Gate

• NCLA

• Necessaire

• Nivea

• Osea

• Pacifica

• Per-fekt Beauty

• Plaine Prodcuts

• Prima

• Rare Beauty

• RxVersed

• Sibu Beauty

• skyn ICELAND

• Sparitual

• Spectrum Collections

• Stream2Sea

• Subtle Green

• Summer Fridays

• The Fanciful Fox

• The Ordinary

• True Botanicals

• 7th Heaven

• Luna Bronze